By Guest Blogger Adam Ü
About the author: If you read ski magazines and/or receive ski gear catalogs, you’ve seen photos of Adam Ü slashing the perfect powder turn, the turn that keeps you going during those hot summer months, the turn that haunts your dreams. Making those turns look effortless on film is Adam’s job, and he’s good at it – he’s been traveling the globe chasing powder for more than a decade honing his skills. Adam’s crew coined the word Japanuary, because for the past 5+ years, they’ve spent January in Japan, enjoying the deepest powder of their lives. Here, Adam shares some crucial expertise to help us noobs make the most of our Japanese powder-chasing adventures.
-Dan
Why Japan?
There’s no question that Japan has been getting a lot of attention from ski media over the past few years. Last year in particular it seems just about every film and photo crew posted up in the Land of the Rising Sun. Is Japan really all it’s cracked up to be? In a word – YES. There’s no better place to get the deepest powder of your life. While there are areas in the US and Canada that boast impressive snowfall totals, and Europe goes off on a semi-regular basis, if you’re looking for a slam-dunk deep powder ski trip, the easy choice is Japan.
In my ten-plus years of global ski travel experience, no place I’ve visited has been as consistently deep as Japan. I’ve made it to Japan each of the past five years, where I’ve had about eight of my lifetime top-ten deepest days. Even my home resort of Mt. Baker in Washington State – the world record holder for single-season snowfall with 1,140 inches in the 1998-1999 season (that’s 95 feet) – hasn’t been as consistent as Japan.
Where to go – Honshu or Hokkaido?
There are two main destinations – the main island of Honshu is famous for the 1998 Nagano Olympics and the north island of Hokkaido is home to the popular Niseko area. Your main entry to Honshu is Tokyo; on Hokkaido it’s Sapporo. From those places you will probably take a train or bus to your final destination.
People often ask me the differences between the two islands. In general, the terrain on Honshu can be bigger and steeper (but you may never see the bigger, steeper terrain, let alone ski it, if it’s socked-in and stormy your entire trip).
On Hokkaido the season can be slightly longer and there tends to be more snow of higher (aka lighter) quality.
You can hit both islands on the same trip, but if you have two weeks or less, I recommend choosing one or the other. There’s plenty of variety on each island to keep you occupied. If seeing the famous Japanese Macaque snow monkeys is on your list, be aware they are only on Honshu.
Where to Stay?
Lodging can run the full spectrum from capsule hotels and low priced traditional ryokan lodges to ridiculously expensive five-star hotels. When researching where you’re going to stay, keep in mind that many places, particularly mid-range and higher, include breakfast and dinner in their pricing. This can help you in the long run because restaurant food can get spendy – figure at least ¥1000 or about $10 for a bowl of ramen (which, by the way, is completely different from the cheapo, chemically-flavored dried noodles you ate in college, so it’s definitely worth trying the real deal at least once while you’re there). Also, if you’re used to super-sized American portions after a long day on the hill, you may find yourself leaving dinner #1 and looking for dinner #2 – the Japanese generally eat smaller portions.
Most mid-range and higher lodging options will also have an onsen (hot springs/public bath). Onsens are perfect for washing up and recharging your muscles after a big day. Because clothing is generally frowned upon at onsens, most are segregated by gender, but a few are co-ed. If co-ed, women usually wear some sort of clothing but the men are out there. A strategically placed small towel or hand can be your only option for modesty but don’t worry – the Japanese culture isn’t as afraid of harmless nudity as we are in the US. If your hotel doesn’t have an onsen, or if you’re doing the van life thing, there’s sure to be a public onsen nearby.
How to Avoid the Typical First-Timer Mistakes – Essential Tips from a Pro
I’m not going to give away all of my secret spots because there’s plenty of information out there to help you make your own decisions, but here are a few general tips I’ve learned over the years:
1 – Check your airline’s luggage policy before you book. I recently flew ANA to Japan and barely avoided getting hit with a $200 ski bag fee – each way. Unless it’s changed in the past year, their maximum ski bag size was a random 203cm total dimensions (L+W+H). That’s smaller than ONE of my skis by itself (K2 Powabungas are 184cm long + ~16cm wide + ~15cm tall with bindings = ~215cm), never mind a ski bag! You may get away with it – some friends flew ANA a week or so later and were fine – but you’re taking a $400 risk by booking with them. Speaking of skis – if you can only bring one pair make sure they’re the FATTEST PAIR YOU OWN – chances are you’re not going over there to rip groomers. In the ~100 days I’ve skied in Japan I think over 90% of them have been on 130mm + waist skis. If you’re taking two pairs and traveling with a friend, consider taking one of their pairs and having them take one of yours so if one of your ski bags gets lost in transit, you both have something you can use. Carry on your boots, your transceiver, and one set of ski clothes/goggles/layering system so you have something to wear on the hill in case the rest of your kit doesn’t show up as expected.
2 – Consider sending your luggage from the airport to your hotel via Yamato Express or other transport service. In Narita Airport, when you get out of the baggage claim area take a right, walk to the end of the hallway and look for the booth with the black cat logo. Last year sending a 50lb ski bag only cost about $25 to the Hakuba region and it got there the next day, which certainly beats lugging your crap through the trains and subways. I understand if you don’t want to do this on the way TO your hotel, but definitely consider doing it on the way back to the airport, especially if you’re going to spend some extra time exploring the country (see #7).
3 – Lift tickets vary in price but are generally much less expensive (50% – 75%) than ridiculous US day ticket prices. If you’d rather tour, there are plenty of options – consult your local guide service or if you’re self-sufficient and proficient in safe backcountry travel, just look at Google Maps and plan your day! I will say that of the aforementioned eight deepest days ever, the absolute #1 deepest day I’ve ever had on skis was touring on a hill behind our hotel so it pays to be flexible and have touring gear. You can see a photo of me wallowing out the door on this particular day in issue 9.1 of The Ski Journal
4 – Like anywhere, local knowledge is crucial. It’s handy to hire a local guide service to get the lay of the land on your first few days, especially if you don’t have that much time to figure it out for yourself. While you may see all sorts of rope-ducking Gaijin (stranger/invader/foreigner) everywhere, be aware that different ski areas have different rope-ducking policies and the ski patrol might take your ticket if they catch you dipping into a closed area (often marked by a red X through a blue circle). One thing I have learned over the years is that in some places, skiing directly under the lift is frowned upon. The reason we were given is that the lifts are considered transportation and are subject to the same set of rules as roads, so just as you can’t go jogging on a freeway, you can’t ski under a lift. This can be frustrating since scoping terrain from the lift is one of the best ways to learn an area, so it’s just one of those things to be aware of. I’ve found Japanese culture to be generally polite and helpful, but also formal and rule-oriented. English is common enough in Niseko and Hakuba but don’t expect much outside of the bigger tourist destinations. If you get caught doing something dumb do not expect to sweet talk your way out of it or get them to bend the rules for you; just be humble and own it – after all, you’re visiting their home mountains.
5 – Carry your full avy kit (beacon, probe, shovel, skins, and the knowledge to use them all) with you every day. Like Europe, in Japan you’re either on a groomer or you’re on your own. The off-piste terrain can seem small but it’s usually quite complex, probably not controlled for avalanches, and even a small slide can be big trouble.
Not to mention you can easily get stuck in treewells, holes, or your own hot tub! Ski with friends and keep an eye on each other – don’t count on the ski patrol to come rescue you. On my second day ever skiing in Japan I underestimated the hazards of truly deep snow and had to get dug out from a near NARSID (Non-Avalanche Related Snow Immersion Death) situation right under a chairlift. NOT FUN. The same day I had to dig out a friend right next to a groomer!
People often want to skimp on the skins but if you are downhill from your friend who needs help, the time and effort it takes to put skins on and get to your buddy (even if you have alpine bindings and can only shuffle uphill) is a tiny fraction of the time and energy it will take to struggle and wallow uphill through waist-deep fluff.
Airbags are a challenge mostly because of TSA, but Japanese laws are also tricky. The best I can suggest is to check your airline policy and hope for the best, or fly out of Canada! Japan-specific canisters for BCA Float packs are available for rent in Japan from K2 Japan (they will send to your hotel and you send them back when you’re done) and some larger ski areas. Unfortunately, Japanese laws only allow refills of Japanese-spec BCA canisters so you can’t bring your own and get them filled. Explosive triggers of ABS systems technically aren’t allowed but you will see plenty of European skiers with ABS packs.
6 – Eat the food! Don’t be afraid… it probably won’t kill you. If you have food allergies or are vegetarian, do yourself a favor and learn how to say that in Japanese. You don’t have to be fluent as long as you can get your point across; I’ve traveled with a friend who is deathly allergic to squid so whenever there’s any question he says the Japanese word for squid – “ika” – and makes the universal “I’m choking” gesture. Everyone laughs and he doesn’t get any squid.
Speaking of food, if you’re on a budget you’ll want to get friendly with the local convenience stores (Seicomart, Lawson’s, 7-11, Family Mart). These aren’t the convenience stores you are used to that only carry chips, candy, and those sketchy hot dogs that never stop rolling. Japanese convenience stores have an amazing selection of hot and cold food that’s cheap, filling, and good. You may have a bit of “choose your own adventure” because sometimes it’s not obvious what you’re getting, but whatever it is, it’s probably going to be pretty good. One hot tip I got last year that can help you pick out onigiri (delicious and cheap rice triangles that make perfect packable lunches) – the character that looks like a backwards “E” is pronounced “yo” and is on all the onigiri that contain mayonnaise – Tuna Mayo, Shrimp Mayo, Salmon Mayo, etc. If you just can’t risk getting salted plum or cod roe flavored rice triangles, look for the backwards “E” and be safe with the Gaijin-approved flavors.
A couple of pointers on “hashi”/chopsticks etiquette: When you’re eating rice with chopsticks – which you will do at some point – never impale your bowl with your chopsticks. Rest your chopsticks on the edge of the bowl. An impaled bowl implies death and is rude. Don’t rub your chopsticks together to get the splinters off either. That’s another rude gesture, so if you must de-splinter, be discreet.
7 – There’s a lot more to Japan than just skiing so be sure to spend a day or two in Tokyo (or Sapporo) on your way out. Both cities are amazing. Whatever your interest – museums, shopping, food, nightlife… it’s there, and it will blow your mind. It’s super easy to do this if you send the bulk of your luggage directly to the airport via a transport service and just go alpine-style in the city. One of my favorite ways to spend a day in Tokyo is by going to the Tsukiji fish market early in the morning, then going guitar shopping in Ochanomizu and Shibuya. If you’re able to check out the Snow Festival in Sapporo (usually sometime in February) it’s a must-do.
Bottom line – get your trip booked.
And there you have it! If you haven’t been to Japan you really need to make it happen, so pack your fattest skis and avy gear, brush up on your chopsticks skills, learn a few key phrases (for instance: “sumimasen” means “excuse me/sorry” and you will use it frequently when you blunder through train stations or crowded cities with your ski bag; “domo arigato” means “thank you very much” – forget Mr. Roboto), and book yourself a flight! You won’t regret it.
– Adam Ü
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