{"id":5869,"date":"2016-11-11T16:48:06","date_gmt":"2016-11-11T23:48:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/?p=5869"},"modified":"2018-03-10T13:52:39","modified_gmt":"2018-03-10T20:52:39","slug":"road-trip-jackson-targhee-bigsky","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/road-trip-jackson-targhee-bigsky\/","title":{"rendered":"Skiing the Iconic Peaks of the American West"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>By Julie Brown<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5870\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5870\" style=\"width: 887px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-5870 \" src=\"http:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-1.jpg\" alt=\"jacksontargheebigsky-1\" width=\"887\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-1.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-1-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 887px) 100vw, 887px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5870\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Squeeze in tight and meet your neighbor. The Jackson Hole Tram is all part of the experience.\u00a0 PHOTO: Julie Brown<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The red tram at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort places skiers on top of a thigh-burning and consistent 4,139 vertical feet. On the other side of Wyoming\u2019s Teton mountains, Grand Targhee collects more than 500 inches of snow every year (what Targhee doesn\u2019t collect is crowds). Two hours north, patrollers open up some of the West&#8217;s rowdiest inbounds terrain on Lone Peak at Big Sky, Montana.<\/p>\n<p>Jackson, Targhee, Big Sky\u2014the three heavies of the Rocky Mountain West, where the snow keeps cold and covers the steep, and ski culture intermingles with cowboy culture.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/d\/u\/0\/embed?mid=1Z1dQ9cRKSkSTrpS8LbFqu223C28\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><strong>The Skiing<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>All three have a rich skiing tradition. Jackson Hole, founded in 1965 by Alex Morley and Paul McCollister, is home to ski racers Pepi Steigler and Tommy Moe and the original Powder 8s Championship. But really, Jackson earned its fame as a proving ground for big mountain skiers. In the late \u201980s and \u201990s, Doug Coombs and the Jackson Hole Air Force were ducking boundary ropes illegally to pioneer huge and consequential lines just outside of the ski resort.<\/p>\n<p>Today, Jackson attracts the best skiers in the country. Every morning, they stand in line for the tram.<\/p>\n<p>Take that tram to the top of the mountain and ski down the wide, open pow field that is Rendezvous Bowl. Jackson\u2019s terrain is stacked, with bowls dropping into chutes dropping into bowls. Ski all the way to the valley floor in one shot, or hop on either the Sublette or Thunder chairlifts for more skiing and less waiting.<\/p>\n<p>Every year, a new crop of skiers arrives in Jackson to push their limits in the resort and beyond the ropes. And every year, skiers die in the backcountry. The backcountry terrain accessed from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is some of the best in the world. But tread carefully and slowly. Find a mentor to show you the way. Or hire a guide: Exum Mountain Guides in Jackson Hole have been taking people into the Tetons for 80 years.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5871\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5871\" style=\"width: 887px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-5871 \" src=\"http:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-2.jpg\" alt=\"jacksontargheebigsky-2\" width=\"887\" height=\"499\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-2.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-2-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-2-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 887px) 100vw, 887px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5871\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cody Peak, as seen from inbounds at Jackson Hole, is a classic backcountry destination. Let a local lead if you&#8217;re new.\u00a0 PHOTO: Julie Brown<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>On the other side of the Tetons, the pace is slower at Grand Targhee. Five lifts access more than 2,600 acres with a 2,419-vertical-foot drop. That\u2019s a lot smaller than Jackson, but some like it better that way. The resort encompasses two mountains, and the terrain, while not as legendary as it\u2019s neighbor, includes sculpted bowls and well-spaced glades.<\/p>\n<p>On cold Wyoming days, warm up with a bootpack up to Mary\u2019s Nipple, an alpine slope that dives into the trees. Targhee may lack in the way of infrastructure, but it certainly has plenty of what counts\u2014snowfall. With fewer skiers, a big storm at Targhee can leave stashes untouched for days.<\/p>\n<p>This winter at Targhee will feel a little different, however. Resort officials have dismantled the Blackfoot Lift, a beloved double chair built in 1974, and are replacing it with a new quad. According to the resort, the new quad will nearly double the people it carries and open up more access to the northern part of the mountain.<\/p>\n<p>To the north, Big Sky is the second largest ski area in the United States. Two years ago, Big Sky absorbed its neighbor, Moonlight Basin, upping the ante to 5,800 acres of terrain. Gentle, rolling groomers make up a lot of that. But then Lone Peak shoots up the middle, with spidery veins of granite, exposed faces, and a couloir named, appropriately, The Big. To ski The Big, skiers must sign out in the patrol shack and ski with a beacon, probe, and shovel. It\u2019s easily the most dramatic inbounds line I\u2019ve ever skied.<\/p>\n<p>While you\u2019re at it, sign up to ski the North Summit Snowfield, too, an exposed and hanging powder field that gives way to rock-lined chutes. Or hit the steep Dictator chutes, no sign-out required, which serve straight fall-line skiing from the top of lone peak to the bottom. My other favorite zone at Big Sky is the Headwaters. The site of big mountain competitions, the Headwaters is a rocky face with a series of chutes and routes. It\u2019s steep. It\u2019s high alpine. And again, it\u2019s crazy that this kind of terrain, with sketchy rock traverses and rappels, is inbounds.<\/p>\n<p>The beauty of Lone Peak, and all of Big Sky, is that it accesses terrain facing nearly every aspect. The game here is to follow the wind. A five-inch storm can yield plenty of face shots if you know where the wind deposited the goods.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5873\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5873\" style=\"width: 888px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-5873 \" src=\"http:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-4.jpg\" alt=\"jacksontargheebigsky-4\" width=\"888\" height=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-4.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-4-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-4-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 888px) 100vw, 888px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5873\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big Sky&#8217;s Lone Peak offers 360 degrees of steep, fall-line skiing, most of it inbounds.\u00a0 PHOTO: Julie Brown<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>The Journey<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Options for lodging in Jackson are split between the village next to the ski area or twenty minutes away in town. You\u2019ve got the Four Seasons, Hotel Terra, the Wort, and the Inn at Jackson Hole, which I\u2019m sure are all very nice. But, if you\u2019re on the same budget as I, then I highly recommend the minimalist slopeside abode known as The Hostel. Among the last of its kind in the West, The Hostel is cheap and within walking distance to the lifts. A bunk in a shared room can cost you $20 to $45, depending on the time of year.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5872\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5872\" style=\"width: 886px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-5872 \" src=\"http:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-3.jpg\" alt=\"jacksontargheebigsky-3\" width=\"886\" height=\"499\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-3.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-3-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/JacksonTargheeBigSky-3-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 886px) 100vw, 886px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5872\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Hostel, the last of its kind at Jackson, is a cheap place to rest your head within a few minutes walk of the tram.\u00a0 PHOTO: Julie Brown<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Leave early on your drive from Jackson to Targhee to stop and ski Teton Pass, which connects Wilson, Wyoming, to Victor, Idaho. Your tracks probably won&#8217;t be alone\u2014the terrain off the pass is popular with local backcountry explorers.<\/p>\n<p>Driggs and the surrounding Teton Valley are on the up-and-up. While Jackson battles an insane housing crisis that looks more like San Francisco than Wyoming, the locals are moving over the pass to Driggs, where life is more affordable, housing is easier to find, and the town is flourishing. The fine cuisine, craft restaurants, and bar life scene in Jackson is spilling into Driggs, too.<\/p>\n<p>Up in Montana, Big Sky is more of a ski area than a town. A new development 10 miles downhill has popped up recently, however, with new restaurants and worthwhile bars. Lotus Pad, the Thai restaurant there, is easily the best in all of Big Sky (and maybe the best Thai food in all of Montana). That\u2019s not a secret, though, so make a reservation. For something closer to the resort, grab a breakfast burrito in the store in the village mall. Scissorbills Saloon is the go-to spot for apr\u00e8s. For accommodations, The Huntley offers reasonable rates, an interesting scene, and, like much of this area, the promise of renovations in the near future. Change, in the way of development, remodeled hotels, and new chairlifts, is coming to Big Sky.<\/p>\n<p>And that might be a good thing\u2014especially if you\u2019re trying to get some sleep at The Huntley after a long day of skiing. The walls there are so thin you get a free pair of earplugs upon check-in. On the last day of the season, following the traditional Big Sky Pond Skim, the entire hotel transformed into a scene out of Animal House, with parties in every room and college kids from Bozeman taking over the hot tub.<\/p>\n<p>That morning had broken blue after a storm dropped six inches of fresh overnight. We went straight to the tram and skied a long run of heavenly white fluff down Dakota Bowl off the top of Lone Peak. From there, I peeled a few layers and took in the Pond Skim, which led to day-drinking in the trees at one of the many hidden shacks scattered across the mountain. It was a full day at Big Sky, experiencing all this place offers\u2014steep skiing, fresh snow, a healthy dose of sunshine, and the wild, raucous spirit of the West.<\/p>\n<p><em>Julie Brown is a Tahoe native who loves to ski. She is a freelance writer and the Associate Editor at Powder Magazine. When she\u2019s not in the mountains, you can find her on the beach and swimming in the Pacific Ocean.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Julie Brown The red tram at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort places skiers on top of a thigh-burning and consistent 4,139 vertical feet. On the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":25,"featured_media":5871,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1046],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5869","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-featured"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Skiing the Iconic Peaks of the American West -<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.powder7.com\/ski-blog\/road-trip-jackson-targhee-bigsky\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Skiing the Iconic Peaks of the American West -\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Julie Brown The red tram at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort places skiers on top of a thigh-burning and consistent 4,139 vertical feet. 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